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James Cater Racing

~ Realising the childhood dream…

James Cater Racing

Tag Archives: single seater

Driving Silverstone International

28 Friday Aug 2015

Posted by jamescaterracing in Formula Vee, Racing, Technique

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braking point, circuit guide, first race, formula vee, lap time, racing line, silverstone international, single seater, tips, track day

Driving Silverstone International

I’m still buzzing from the weekend, and have woken up every single morning since then knowing how I can go faster, and how I should have done each corner better!

This blog won’t be an expert guide to driving the Silverstone International circuit, but it will be my notes on what I did, what worked, and what didn’t work.  Hopefully this will come in use for the next time I race there.

I still haven’t uploaded the qualifying footage – this is because the way I drove in the races was so vastly different that there’s not much to show for my qualifying, other than a bit more action.  Qualifying (and testing the day before) was me driving as fast as I could but still safely – that turned out to be so much slower than the other Vee drivers that I had to totally change my driving style and push way past where I thought my limits were!

So, let’s do a lap.

Turn 1: Abbey

Every Vee driver will tell you that this one is flat out.

From braking hard in testing, I did get braver through the day, and it might well be flat if you’re brave enough and get the line perfect.

There are a lot of entry points, but you want to be as far onto the left curb as you can on the entry, and turning in hard to a blind apex.  At best, I’d breath off the throttle, turn in and let the lift-off oversteer start to bring the back wheels around, then get back on the power and drift out wide towards the curbs on the exit.

There is a lot of time to be had here, and even the slower cars were doing this with a lift off the throttle, and absolutely hammering through the turn.  Get it right and it’s a shouting-in-your-helmet with joy moment!

Overtaking is possible with a bit of soft trail braking to keep you in tight, just in case the car on the outside doesn’t lift off for you.

Turn 2: Farm Curve

This is fully on the power.  The front tyres were skipping  through the turn as I tried to drag it back over to the left side of the track, but I don’t really know why I wasn’t just letting the car run out to the edge of the track on the right, anyway?  There’s still enough time to get back over to the left as you’re on the brakes…

Turn 3: Village

Brake hard just after the curb has started on the left side and whack it in to the ‘hairpin’, dropping down to third as you do.  Some were keeping the exit tight ready for the next left-hand flick, but I found using all the track was the way to go.

Turn 4: The Link

This is just a left flick that you can do flat, but if you’ve exited wide from the previous turn may find you need a brief lift off to get you turned in on the tighter line.  Mid-turn there is a big bump followed by a fair old drop, so expect to be in the air and sideways, angled towards the left side of the track…

Turn 5: Becketts

Stabbing the brakes as you land, you don’t have much time to get lined up on the left before you have to turn right.  This is your exit onto the Hangar Straight, so very important.  It’s a no-brainer to sacrifice the last corner to make sure you get a good exit here, because you’ll carry any extra speed all the way down the straight.  You can run out wide onto the other circuit, but watch out for the cones they may have put out, and make sure you’re back on the International track before the green stuff, or you’ll be at risk of being called for track limits.

Turn 6: Stowe

You need to get your brain to stay flat on the power until the impossibly late curb on the left. brake short and hard here and then trail brake to a late apex.  The curbing on the left hand side actually tightens on the exit, so it’s easy to run out from the apex too early and end up on the astroturf.

Gearing choice is split here, and depends really on your car.  I found snatching 3rd on the way into the turn upset the car too much, but you get better drive out.  I kept it in 4th through the whole turn, but the exit felt slow.  I did notice Pete Belsey was changing down to 3rd on the exit, last year, but didn’t get a chance to try this as there were still some worries about over-revving the engine.

I know I could have grabbed a lot more time here, and I was getting braver every time I took it.

There are loads of overtaking opportunities here on the brakes into the turn, or by cutting back for the exit and the short blast into…

Turn 7: Vale

The corner that I don’t think I ever did to my satisfaction – this section was definitely my weakest/slowest.

There is a crest just before the start of the curb, and some nasty bumps that are the reason I was running such hard front damping. Any softer and the front wheels pattered around like the desperate hands of a drunken faller trying to keep his face off the ground.

It’s the only corner you’re braking really hard for, but I tried braking everywhere from the crest to about the mid-point of the curb, and couldn’t nail it.

Turn-in is at the end of the curb, but again this wasn’t ideal.

Either way it’s really a sacrifice corner, because you need to be setting up for the main straight through this complex.

A right turn is immediately after, and you can compromise your line into it by being far to the right and lifting to get turned in, or try to get out of the first part of Vale as far to the left as you can and try to power through.

Turn 8: Club

Club starts with an easy curve to the right, where you need to be heading straight at the curb on the left to get the speed up,  before the fast apex leading onto the straight. This should be flat, but beware as, much like the pit straight on the National track, there is a big hard concrete wall to the inside that you really don’t want to be spinning into.

I was at 7000rpm when I hit the exit curb, so was having to shift very quickly to fourth – there wasn’t much I could do about this, and so was the hardest section on the engine.

Also remember the finish line is a fair way before the start line, so get any last lap dives up the inside done early or it’ll all be for nothing!

My fastest lap was a 1:21.33 (avg. speed 81.89mph) when I was reeling in Ed Lowndes and Alex Jones, but from the footage I had a huge lift off in Club at the start of the lap to avoid a slower car. Although I took Abbey with probably my smallest breath ever off the throttle, the rest of the lap wasn’t particularly outstanding – so I know I can take a big chunk out of that.

I need to find another 3 seconds to be up with the leaders. 1 second I’m sure will be there. 2? Possibly, if I up my game considerably.

I was expecting to be 8-10 seconds off the pace, so I’m pretty chuffed with that for my first time out in a Sheane that was built back in 1995, and hasn’t had any modifications other than lowering the rear!

I can’t wait to see how far I can take the car! If my performance wasn’t a fluke, I can’t see a reason why I can’t put myself in the top 10, with a lot of hard work, a few set up tweaks, very hard work, and a bit of luck!

On the other hand, Silverstone International is the only track the other drivers don’t know so well, and their experience will make things a lot tougher at Snetteron and Donington…

Onboard camera review: Mobius Action Camera from JooVuu

20 Wednesday May 2015

Posted by jamescaterracing in Formula Vee, Racing, Rules & Regulations

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Tags

best cam, formula vee, go pro, helmet camera, joovuu, mobius action camera, onboard camera, race footage, review, single seater, specs, waterproof case

Onboard camera review: Mobius Action Camera from JooVuu

Thanks to some excellent support from JooVuu, I shall be using their Mobius Action Camera to capture onboard footage from Formula Vee races.

I’ve been using a Mobius camera on my motorbike helmet for over a year and found them to be much better than the likes of Go Pro.  They are smaller, lighter and have a lower profile – so it’s less like having a brick stuck to the racing car!

In terms of reliability, the Mobius has never once let me down, despite being used daily in sun and rain and from scorching Summer temperatures to way below freezing in the Winter.

The only problem I had was the battery life went down from 80 minutes recording time to around 30 minutes.  This would normally mean buying a new camera if you’re not adept at fiddly circuit board stuff, but in this case I just got a new battery from JooVuu (for around £5), opened up the camera, and it’s literally just a case of unplugging the old one and slotting the new battery in!  Even better is that the latest batteries have improved to give over 2 hours recording time.

And it’s this kind of constant improvement that puts these cameras above many costing hundreds of pounds more – firmware is updated for free by a downloadable program that also allows you to fine-tune more settings than you’ll ever need.

It’s primary use was for radio controlled aircraft, so is small and light.  This also makes it perfect for use on a racing car or motorcycle.

JooVuu themselves designed and built a great quality waterproof case which I have put through some serious weather at high speed, and it’s been flawless.

The waterproof case does deaden the sound a little – there is no way to use an external mic with the Mobius, and whilst sound is good as it is, wind noise can be a pain.

I think for use on a single seater racing car, it will pay to use the case.  There’s too much oil and fluids flying about on a race track, and it will also offer some extra protection if I decide to get some close-ups of tyre barriers and gravel traps.

There are as many different mounts around as you can imagine, and more are being released all the time – so you should be able to find something to suit your needs.  I will be doing a separate blog exploring how and where I’m going to place my cameras on the car, so please check back for that, or give me any tips or recommendations that you have.

JooVuu also have top-notch customer support, and I’m sure will answer any questions you have through their website:

http://www.joovuu.com/?ref=2489

And please mention my name if you decide to buy anything from them!  I’m more than happy to shout their praises, or answer any other questions that you have myself.

Specs & Info

The Mobius Action Camera Wide Angle Version has a Field of View (FOV) of 131 degrees. It’s ultra compact shape means it is small and shorter than a credit card and is is only 15mm high.

Ideal for an Action Camera:

  • 820mAh Battery
  • Two user selectable video modes, toggled by the mode button after power up. Either mode can be set to record 1080p-30fps or 720p-60fps or 720p-30fps.
  • Three movie quality settings (Super, Standard, and Low), which will vary the recording bit rates suitable for the user-selected frame size and frame rate. The Super setting with 1080p-30 fps video gives an approximate average total bit rate around 18,000 kbps. with a high level of detail and smoothess of motion. The Low setting with 720p-30 fps video gives approximately 5800 kbps at the low end.
  • Lots of accessories: cars, bikes, and soon surfboards!

Ideal for a car cam:

  • Auto-record when power to the camera is applied (useful for car recorder use – no button presses needed).
  • Loop recording (5 min. clips with one sec. video overlap, so no lost video).Pressing the mode button while in Loop Record mode means that the current file cannot be overwritten and in turn protects it from accidental deletion or overwriting. However, it can be manually deleted.
  • Movie flip (180 deg. rotation).
  • Movie sound (off plus three volume levels).
  • Photo capture mode with frame sizes of 2048×1536, 1920×1080, or 1280×720 (all native pixel sizes – no up conversion).
  • Time lapse photos with delays between images. The targeted delay times range from 0.25 to 60 sec.
  • Recording LED toggle.
  • Movie/photo time stamp toggle.
  • Power on button delay (to prevent premature activation while handling)

Other information:

  • The video format is .MOV with H.264 compression codec. Furthermore, this camera can record sequential clips with a one sec. overlap, so there is no lost video and no need for an AVI firmware like the #16 to get that benefit.
  • Four video recording cycle time settings 5, 10, and 15 min. plus “Max”, all of which stop/save/continue. The Max setting will record until the 4GB files size limit is reached, the card runs out of space, or the battery power is removed. The actual Max recording time will vary dramatically accord to the user’s settings for frame size, frame rate, and movie quality. The 4GB file limit can be reached in less than 30 min. with 1080p High quality video.
  • Charging on/off toggle when plugged into a USB data port (useful for some external USB devices).
  • TV out (PAL or NTSC), which will include a playback mode.
  • TV display ratio (4:3 or 16:9).
  • GUI program support for setting the parameters will be available.

Koden KSC25 Helmet Extras

14 Tuesday Apr 2015

Posted by jamescaterracing in Formula Vee, Racing

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Tags

advice, AGV, carbon, confusion, custom, extras, formula vee, helmet, helmet accessories, koden, KSC25, parts, peak, sheane, single seater, spolier

Koden KSC25 Helmet Extras

As mentioned in my previous blog, the brilliant Koden KSC25 Carbon helmet comes with a few accessories.

The peak is of no use to me racing an open single-seater, but I’m sure is great for rally drivers etc.

The spoiler, however, was of interest to me.

As a very good and very cheap helmet, I’m sure a lot of people will be buying these, but, not many will want to get them painted up because it’s The Law to keep your carbon weave on show!

There are absolutely no instructions with the helmet – perhaps unsurprisingly, as you probably shouldn’t be getting in a car if you can’t figure out which end to put your helmet on. This leaves a bit of a dilemma with these extra bits, and what to do with them, though…

The spoiler and the peak come with ‘sticky stuff’ around their edges, so you just peel the tape off and stick it onto your helmet.

Umm… where??

There are no images I could find online of a helmet with either accessory actually attached!

I’m sure the spoiler is more cosmetic than anything, but as a biker I appreciate the need to have vents and peaks and all kinds of nonsense hanging off your helmet. It just looks better!

Many helmets boast about their anti-lift properties (meaning the air won’t get under them and lift them up at high speed), and the Koden spoiler may have some kind of effect here. Looking at my trusty AGV Stealth motorcycle helmet, though, I suspect it’s more to aid the exhaust vents on the back of the helmet.

My AGV has a spoiler itself, but with ducting to channel air from the front of the helmet all the way back and past the exhaust vents. My best guess is that the Koden spoiler is supposed to be placed in a similar fashion, i.e. covering the helmets exhaust vents like this:

I’ve already seen a few weird and wonderful placements from races this year, and as I said, I don’t think it REALLY matters, but by my logic and experience, this is how it’s supposed to go.

I suspect most will just leave the KSC25 bare and not have to guess!

I am planning on a few small stickers with my name on to stick on the helmet – but am also conscious that scrutineers don’t like helmet stickers as they might be covering something up.

Oh, and please before you go sticking anything on your brand new helmet – SIT IN YOUR CAR!

You’ll be gutted if you go sticking stuff all over it only to find you can’t get your head on your head rest anymore!

If you’re driving a Sheane Formula Vee – you’re fine to use it.

First HANS in a Sheane Formula Vee!

13 Friday Mar 2015

Posted by jamescaterracing in Formula Vee, Racing, Rules & Regulations

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

20 degree, 2015 regulations, 30 degree, belts, cost, f1, fitment, formula vee, frontal head restraint, HANS, hans posts, koden, msa uk, race harness, racing, safety, sheane, single seater

First HANS in a Sheane Formula Vee!

Well, maybe not technically the first one ever, but the first time in this Sheane, anyway!

The MSA rules for 2015 state that all single seater drivers in cars made from the year 2000 onwards must use a frontal head restraint system, with pre-2000 cars being required to use them from 2016.

This means Glenn’s 1997 Sheane that I’ll be driving is exempt, however, after writing my previous blog about this, I decided (and my fiancée ‘told’ me!) that I’d be a fool not to be using one right from the start.

The first problem here is that these devices (which I’ll call HANS from here) come in various angles to suit seating positions – so 10 degree is for Formula One, through to 40 degrees for bolt-upright seats such as truck racing. Most single-seaters will need 20 degrees, but there’s no real way to find out which you need until you sit in the car with it on.

Secondly, compared to the 30 degree HANS used for most saloon car racing, the 20 degree kits cost at least 50% more. Whether this is pure greed (the rules to use HANS are ONLY for single-seaters), or because, as these represent a minority of racing series and smaller production runs are required, I will make no comment.

Demon Tweaks were offering an adjustable HANS for around £20 more than the 20 degree model, and as Glenn pointed out, this would mean I could use it with whatever type of car I take on track.

Delivery received, I screwed the posts in to my Koden KSC25 helmet, and attached the HANS.

You don’t have to be scared about this part. You should make sure that there is some thread locker on the screws for the posts, but mine already came with it on the screws.

The HANS attaches to your helmet by sliding the attachment onto the post, which is also spring loaded. Nice and easy, and probably something you could learn to do after putting your helmet on… I found I can put the HANS around my neck already clipped onto the helmet, and then slip the helmet on.

I don’t really know what we’d have done if we’d found it didn’t all fit in the Sheane, but luckily that wasn’t an issue.

I may have mentioned that the head rest in the car may be a little far forward for my liking, and the HANS doesn’t help here – but it’s nowhere near as intrusive as I expected it to be. You’d have to look hard at the pictures to see I’m using one, once it’s all belted up.  We may use a smaller bracket for the head rest, but were most likely going to do that even without the HANS.

You CAN feel you’re wearing the HANS when you first put it on, but you wouldn’t call it uncomfortable.  By the time you’ve adjusted your belts and pulled them tight (making sure it sits right), you’ve already forgotten you’re wearing it.

It makes absolutely no difference to sideways vision or movement, and, as you can see, the tethers are very slack when it’s all in place.  You have to lean your head pretty far forwards before you feel them do their job.

If you’re using 3″ belts, they don’t quite fit over the guides, but the safety documentation says as long as the excess belt is riding up the neck side of the device that’s perfectly ok.  We may decide to adjust the belt mountings inwards a bit more behind the seat, but I think it is workable how it is.

Other than that there are no dramas!  We’ve brought an old Sheane Formula Vee up to modern safety spec, and now I just hope that we do it justice.

And with any luck, we won’t even have to make use of the proven life-saving capabilities of a HANS device.

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