Category Archives: Rules & Regulations

Mounting cameras on a Formula Vee

08 Monday Jun 2015

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Mounting cameras on a Formula Vee

When I had the Donington test last year, my mounting bracket hadn’t turned up in time, and so I went with the easy option – I put a bit of foam underneath the camera (a Mobius Action Camera in JooVuu waterproof case) and duct taped that sucker to the roll hoop on the Sheane.

Whilst this does work, and is very secure, it does come with a few problems.  First, we found I’d taped over the LED that shows if the camera is switched on or running, so we had to guess whether it was working.  It also means it’s hard to take the memory card out or charge the battery up.

For this year I’m going to make use of the bar clamp mount from JooVuu.  It’s not perfect because it’s a bit too small for the 32mm chassis tube – but as I came to find when testing things out, the tube isn’t exactly round everywhere, either, so that makes things a bit tough.

The previous run with it taped on top of the roll hoop gave a good picture, but a lot of the screen was filled up by my behelmeted noggin.  This is hard to get around, but with this proper mount it should raise the camera a good few centimeters up, which might make all the difference.

The best camera view will show as much action as possible – both outside and inside the car.  This means mounting it on the right hand side, so you (hopefully) get a view of the gearshift and the steering wheel, and maybe even the pedals.

I may be able to get around this even more effectively by mounting the camera on the side of the roll hoop, although the mount that I currently have limits this, as you can’t have the mount in place with the camera horizontal…

This is probably what I’ll go with at first, but it’s no problem to unbolt and move the camera around a little.

As Glenn rightly pointed out, if I put the car upside down it could cause a problem for the camera with these mountings, but then I will be hoping not to do that, anyway!

We also need to consider getting into and out of the car – in a single seater it’s an even that requires an almost Olympic level of strength and contortionism, without having to worry about knocking a camera.  And we need to ensure there’s somewhere for them to put a tow rope if we end up getting towed off circuit again!

I will hopefully experiment with rear-facing cameras (providing there are going to be other cars behind me on the track!), but that will need more thinking about with types of mount, heat from the engine, and vibrations from bodywork.

If the test day goes without drama, then I should have a bit of time to rethink what we’re doing with cameras, and make improvements where we can.

Onboard camera review: Mobius Action Camera from JooVuu

20 Wednesday May 2015

Posted by in Formula Vee, Racing, Rules & Regulations

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Onboard camera review: Mobius Action Camera from JooVuu

Thanks to some excellent support from JooVuu, I shall be using their Mobius Action Camera to capture onboard footage from Formula Vee races.

I’ve been using a Mobius camera on my motorbike helmet for over a year and found them to be much better than the likes of Go Pro.  They are smaller, lighter and have a lower profile – so it’s less like having a brick stuck to the racing car!

In terms of reliability, the Mobius has never once let me down, despite being used daily in sun and rain and from scorching Summer temperatures to way below freezing in the Winter.

The only problem I had was the battery life went down from 80 minutes recording time to around 30 minutes.  This would normally mean buying a new camera if you’re not adept at fiddly circuit board stuff, but in this case I just got a new battery from JooVuu (for around £5), opened up the camera, and it’s literally just a case of unplugging the old one and slotting the new battery in!  Even better is that the latest batteries have improved to give over 2 hours recording time.

And it’s this kind of constant improvement that puts these cameras above many costing hundreds of pounds more – firmware is updated for free by a downloadable program that also allows you to fine-tune more settings than you’ll ever need.

It’s primary use was for radio controlled aircraft, so is small and light.  This also makes it perfect for use on a racing car or motorcycle.

JooVuu themselves designed and built a great quality waterproof case which I have put through some serious weather at high speed, and it’s been flawless.

The waterproof case does deaden the sound a little – there is no way to use an external mic with the Mobius, and whilst sound is good as it is, wind noise can be a pain.

I think for use on a single seater racing car, it will pay to use the case.  There’s too much oil and fluids flying about on a race track, and it will also offer some extra protection if I decide to get some close-ups of tyre barriers and gravel traps.

There are as many different mounts around as you can imagine, and more are being released all the time – so you should be able to find something to suit your needs.  I will be doing a separate blog exploring how and where I’m going to place my cameras on the car, so please check back for that, or give me any tips or recommendations that you have.

JooVuu also have top-notch customer support, and I’m sure will answer any questions you have through their website:

http://www.joovuu.com/?ref=2489

And please mention my name if you decide to buy anything from them!  I’m more than happy to shout their praises, or answer any other questions that you have myself.

Specs & Info

The Mobius Action Camera Wide Angle Version has a Field of View (FOV) of 131 degrees. It’s ultra compact shape means it is small and shorter than a credit card and is is only 15mm high.

Ideal for an Action Camera:

  • 820mAh Battery
  • Two user selectable video modes, toggled by the mode button after power up. Either mode can be set to record 1080p-30fps or 720p-60fps or 720p-30fps.
  • Three movie quality settings (Super, Standard, and Low), which will vary the recording bit rates suitable for the user-selected frame size and frame rate. The Super setting with 1080p-30 fps video gives an approximate average total bit rate around 18,000 kbps. with a high level of detail and smoothess of motion. The Low setting with 720p-30 fps video gives approximately 5800 kbps at the low end.
  • Lots of accessories: cars, bikes, and soon surfboards!

Ideal for a car cam:

  • Auto-record when power to the camera is applied (useful for car recorder use – no button presses needed).
  • Loop recording (5 min. clips with one sec. video overlap, so no lost video).Pressing the mode button while in Loop Record mode means that the current file cannot be overwritten and in turn protects it from accidental deletion or overwriting. However, it can be manually deleted.
  • Movie flip (180 deg. rotation).
  • Movie sound (off plus three volume levels).
  • Photo capture mode with frame sizes of 2048×1536, 1920×1080, or 1280×720 (all native pixel sizes – no up conversion).
  • Time lapse photos with delays between images. The targeted delay times range from 0.25 to 60 sec.
  • Recording LED toggle.
  • Movie/photo time stamp toggle.
  • Power on button delay (to prevent premature activation while handling)

Other information:

  • The video format is .MOV with H.264 compression codec. Furthermore, this camera can record sequential clips with a one sec. overlap, so there is no lost video and no need for an AVI firmware like the #16 to get that benefit.
  • Four video recording cycle time settings 5, 10, and 15 min. plus “Max”, all of which stop/save/continue. The Max setting will record until the 4GB files size limit is reached, the card runs out of space, or the battery power is removed. The actual Max recording time will vary dramatically accord to the user’s settings for frame size, frame rate, and movie quality. The 4GB file limit can be reached in less than 30 min. with 1080p High quality video.
  • Charging on/off toggle when plugged into a USB data port (useful for some external USB devices).
  • TV out (PAL or NTSC), which will include a playback mode.
  • TV display ratio (4:3 or 16:9).
  • GUI program support for setting the parameters will be available.

First HANS in a Sheane Formula Vee!

13 Friday Mar 2015

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First HANS in a Sheane Formula Vee!

Well, maybe not technically the first one ever, but the first time in this Sheane, anyway!

The MSA rules for 2015 state that all single seater drivers in cars made from the year 2000 onwards must use a frontal head restraint system, with pre-2000 cars being required to use them from 2016.

This means Glenn’s 1997 Sheane that I’ll be driving is exempt, however, after writing my previous blog about this, I decided (and my fiancée ‘told’ me!) that I’d be a fool not to be using one right from the start.

The first problem here is that these devices (which I’ll call HANS from here) come in various angles to suit seating positions – so 10 degree is for Formula One, through to 40 degrees for bolt-upright seats such as truck racing. Most single-seaters will need 20 degrees, but there’s no real way to find out which you need until you sit in the car with it on.

Secondly, compared to the 30 degree HANS used for most saloon car racing, the 20 degree kits cost at least 50% more. Whether this is pure greed (the rules to use HANS are ONLY for single-seaters), or because, as these represent a minority of racing series and smaller production runs are required, I will make no comment.

Demon Tweaks were offering an adjustable HANS for around £20 more than the 20 degree model, and as Glenn pointed out, this would mean I could use it with whatever type of car I take on track.

Delivery received, I screwed the posts in to my Koden KSC25 helmet, and attached the HANS.

You don’t have to be scared about this part. You should make sure that there is some thread locker on the screws for the posts, but mine already came with it on the screws.

The HANS attaches to your helmet by sliding the attachment onto the post, which is also spring loaded. Nice and easy, and probably something you could learn to do after putting your helmet on… I found I can put the HANS around my neck already clipped onto the helmet, and then slip the helmet on.

I don’t really know what we’d have done if we’d found it didn’t all fit in the Sheane, but luckily that wasn’t an issue.

I may have mentioned that the head rest in the car may be a little far forward for my liking, and the HANS doesn’t help here – but it’s nowhere near as intrusive as I expected it to be. You’d have to look hard at the pictures to see I’m using one, once it’s all belted up.  We may use a smaller bracket for the head rest, but were most likely going to do that even without the HANS.

You CAN feel you’re wearing the HANS when you first put it on, but you wouldn’t call it uncomfortable.  By the time you’ve adjusted your belts and pulled them tight (making sure it sits right), you’ve already forgotten you’re wearing it.

It makes absolutely no difference to sideways vision or movement, and, as you can see, the tethers are very slack when it’s all in place.  You have to lean your head pretty far forwards before you feel them do their job.

If you’re using 3″ belts, they don’t quite fit over the guides, but the safety documentation says as long as the excess belt is riding up the neck side of the device that’s perfectly ok.  We may decide to adjust the belt mountings inwards a bit more behind the seat, but I think it is workable how it is.

Other than that there are no dramas!  We’ve brought an old Sheane Formula Vee up to modern safety spec, and now I just hope that we do it justice.

And with any luck, we won’t even have to make use of the proven life-saving capabilities of a HANS device.

Helmet Upgrade: Koden KSC25 Carbon

26 Monday Jan 2015

Posted by in Formula Vee, Racing, Rules & Regulations, Uncategorized

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Helmet Upgrade: Koden KSC25 Carbon

Much as I love my floro yellow Koden, the move to using a HANS device meant my hand was forced, and I needed to buy a new helmet with the SAH2010 approval with the HANS posts drilled.

It was always my intention to get a ‘better’ helmet when I could, so I figured now I might as well spend and get something I’d be happy with for many years to come.

Most of the big names sell their entry level helmet for around £400+, then the HANS posts will cost another £40+. That’s all a lot of money for someone with an Oliver Twist style race budget like mine!

Having been happy with the fit of my Koden, I looked at their more expensive models at the Autosport International Show, and found the fit equally as good, but the quality of their later helmets noticeable better.

Their base helmet with HANS fitments could be had for around £250!  The only limit is that you have to have black or white, so no gaudy glowing colours this time…

However, if I’d bought one of these (and I’d be happy to race in them) I’d have always been kicking myself for not buying the full carbon fiber version – so I did!

The show price from Mark at M&P was an absolute bargain of £350 INCLUDING the HANS fitments!  So for that extra £100, I’d be getting a Koden KSC25 in real life carbon – the likes of which would set you back, ooh, one or two thousand for one of the ‘big name’ brands!

Quality is excellent.  Nothing is flimsy, all the bits join together perfectly, and even the Nomex lining is well-stitched and as good as any I’ve seen.  Weight is a stunning 1330g.  To put that into perspective, as a biker of 15 years riding daily, I buy the best kit I can.  I have never worn a helmet as light as the Koden KSC25, and it’s very, very noticeable as soon as you put it on!

It’s got a trusty double D-ring fastener, and holds my noggin like a sensuous lover.  Or a wrestler about to crush your head like a grapefruit.  Whatever makes you feel safer!  And the button on the front is to release the visor – so no more fumbling around for the lift tab!

As you can see from the first picture, you get a few accessories, too.  There’s the peaked bit, for people who drive closed cars and are deluded into thinking nothing can ever possibly get through the windscreen, so don’t need a visor.  And another bit that I think is a spoiler.  I’ll put that on, if I can – I need to check clearance in the Vee cockpit with the HANS kit, first, though.

You can get spare visors, but I forgot to get one!  I think you can get black/smoke or blue iridium.  I wear blue iridium on my bike, because a) it looks cool, and b) the blue tint gives better viewing definition in cloudy or overcast conditions – perfect for the UK!

I am chuffed to bits with my Koden KSC25.  For the price it’s unbelievable value – but just as a race helmet for ANY money, it’s a damned fine buy!  I’m sure it will do me proud.

NEC Autosport International Show

13 Tuesday Jan 2015

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NEC Autosport International Show

Every year I umm and arr about whether I NEED to go to the Birmingham National Exhibition Centre, paying £10 to get ripped off for parking, and gazing at a load of racing cars, before spending obscene amounts of money on kit.

With some of the rule changes this year, and wanting to try out some HANS devices, and also find out a lot of information, the 2015 show was essential for me.

I don’t technically have to wear a HANS until 2016, but I’d be stupid to get in a car without one (see previous blog).  I have now found out for definite that you can’t get any old helmet drilled and fitted with HANS posts – they do have to be certified to have them.  So this means my flouro yellow Koden helmet is going to have to go.

I’m almost certainly going to get another Koden helmet – but the HANS fitted ones only come in black, white or carbon fibre.  They fit me really well, and are closer to what a helmet SHOULD cost without getting ripped off for a brand name!

I sadly didn’t take advantage of the show offer for £350 for the carbon lid with posts, so will probably now have to pay £400 and then get the posts as well!  Unless any of you guys have a contact to help me out here?

I was pleased to see that the AHS Formula Vee on the 750 Motor Club stand was fitted with the elusive Hoosier tyres we have to buy for this season!  The look of them has definitely grown on me, and poking them found them to be very soft, with very deep tread. 

I swear I’m going to film the holding area after the first race, then make a drinking game: Every time someone pushes down on or prods another drivers tyres to try to gauge what pressures they’re running, you have to take a drink.  It will be a very messy and very short game…

Anyway – the highlights of the show!

I hadn’t been there long before I saw this beast sat in the distance:

It’s the truly awesome Sauber/Mercedes C9 Group C beast!  Thinking this would be Car Of The Show for me, I then noticed a Lister Storm right behind it!

This was my favourite car from when they came out (I have the brochures for the road version!).  I don’t know what colours it’s in here (maybe the Spanish series), but it was amazing to see one in the flesh.

To complete my top 3, despite an Audi Sport Quattro and Jaguar XJR-15 being right next to the two above, it has to be this mean-looking Renault that I know nothing about:

A Renaultsport R.S.01 apparently! Mmm!

A damn fine show, overall – probably my favourite one so far!  If you went, what were the best bits for you?

 

Provisional Calendar & New Tyre Supplier For 2015!

19 Friday Dec 2014

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Provisional Calendar & New Tyre Supplier For 2015!

At last, the provisional calendar for the 2015 Tillotson UK Formula Vee Championship has been announced:

Brands Hatch 25/26th April
Croft 23/24th May
Cadwell Park 20/21st June
Anglesey 18/19th July
Silverstone 22/23rd Aug
Snetterton 300 12/13th Sept
Donington Park GP 3/4th Oct

Out of those I’ve been to Donington on my bike, and possibly done Silverstone for my ARDS test (depending on whether it’s the International circuit, or not) – and those two are at the end of the year!

So I may have to claw some more testing budget from somewhere…

They’re all good tracks, though, and I’m already getting the first pangs of excitement.  Brands and Croft will take me back to the old TOCA Touring Cars computer game that I spent many hours on as a young whipper-snapper!

I think the grids may struggle for the start of the season, though…

Not only are most being forced into spending around £500 on HANS kit to race this year, but the Dunlop tyres used since Vee began have been axed.

After several very hasty tests of alternatives, it has been decided to use Hoosier tyres going forward.  This will mean everyone also has to shell out £490 +VAT for at least one set…

We were hoping that Class B cars would be allowed to use the Dunlops for this year – Glenn has “more than a few” sets that he’s collected over the years – but sadly this won’t happen.  We’ll still use the Dunlops for testing, to try and get some use out of them.

SUPER CHAIN LINK

The Hoosiers are supposed to be fairly close in lap times, but are ugly as sin!  I personally don’t think ‘vintage’ looking tyres will help the image of Formula Vee, but some are using them now for the Australian series, and maybe it’s just my biker mentality playing up a bit.  The look of the tread for bike tyres is very important for sales.

Having said that, it seems to be extremely hard to get a definite picture of the new tyres from anywhere.  If they’re like the picture above, then they’re not so bad.  If you heard drivers describing them at Donington in the cafe, you’d have far greater reservations.

Still, I’m sure when I’m in the car it won’t bother me, and we’ll soon get used to them!

I’d better keep buying those Lottery tickets.

EDIT:

Steve Bailey sent me a picture of the Hoosiers for UK Formula Vee:

A lot more tread than the current Dunlops, but I’m sure you’ll agree that they don’t look that bad at all!  I’d much prefer them over the cut slicks that were the other option being discussed – at the very least these will actually work in the wet!